Installing Twin Turbo Kit On 2018+ 5.0 F-150 From On3 Performance

Bolting twin turbos onto your 2018+ F-150 5.0 is one of the best ways to turn a good truck into an absolutely wild one - but it can also feel intimidating if you’ve never tackled a kit like this before. In this post, we’ll walk through a simplified version of the On3Performance twin turbo install, breaking it down into clear, logical stages so you know what to expect, what to prep, and where the common pain points are. Whether you’re doing the install yourself or just want to understand what your shop is up against, this guide will help you go into the project confident instead of guessing.

Don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions! We're always happy to help.

⚠️ Read This First ⚠️

This is a high-level install guide, not a bolt-by-bolt manual.
Read the entire guide at least once or twice before you touch the truck.
Make a plan for:
- Parts you still need (fluids, gaskets, sealant, etc.)
- The order you’ll work in so you’re not doing steps twice.
This system is intended for racing and off-road use only.

⚠️ Safety Note: The AC system must be evacuated by a certified shop before disconnecting any AC lines.

1. Prep the Truck

Evacuate the AC system
- Have the AC system vacuumed out.
- The kit uses a different AC line from the firewall forward, so the factory line will be removed later.
Disconnect power & clear workspace
- Disconnect the battery.
- Remove the battery and battery tray.
  - Do not reinstall yet – it will need trimming later.
Remove stock exhaust
- Start at the rear of the truck and work your way forward to the manifolds.
- Remove the factory exhaust system.
- Save the factory upstream O2 sensors – they will be reused in the new downpipes.
Remove intake and heater hoses
- Remove the complete factory intake system:
  - Airbox
  - Intake tube up to the throttle body
- Remove the two heater core hoses attached to the firewall.
Remove fender liners
- Remove both driver and passenger fender liners for access.

2. Remove Stock Manifolds & Install New Manifolds

Remove factory manifolds & studs
- Remove the stock exhaust manifolds.
- Remove the manifold studs using an inverted Torx socket.
  - The studs stick out too far for the new manifold design.
- The kit includes new manifold bolts in the hardware bag.
Manifold gaskets & spacers
- Use OEM Ford manifold gaskets only – recommended for best sealing.
- You will need three (3) gaskets total:
  - On 2018+ trucks: the manifold spacer is on the passenger side.
  - (For reference: 2011–2017 trucks use the spacer on the driver side.)
Install new manifolds
- Start all bolts loosely before tightening:
  - This lets you center the manifold and line up all bolt holes.
- Once all bolts are started and the manifold is centered:
  - Tighten all manifold bolts evenly.

3. Install Up-Pipes & Mock Up Turbos

Install up-pipes
- The up-pipes are the short tubes with wastegate flanges.
- Install them loosely to the manifolds using 3" v-band clamps from the v-band/T-bolt kit.
- Leave clamps snug but movable so you can clock/adjust later.
Note:
- Up-pipes: use supplied 3" v-band clamps
- Turbos: use 2.75" v-band clamps with the 11mm lock nuts
Mock up turbos
- Grab the two turbos from the kit.
- Loosen all the ½" bolts around:
  - The compressor cover
  - The exhaust housing
- This allows the housings to rotate for proper orientation.
Position turbos on up-pipes
- Set each turbo into its up-pipe v-band.
- Rotate:
  - Up-pipes
  - Turbos
- Goal:
  - Turbos are level
  - Clear of everything in the engine bay (valve covers, steering shaft, etc.)
- Leave v-bands snug but still movable for fine adjustment.
- Position v-band nuts where you can access them easily with downpipes installed (saves a lot of headache later).
- Both compressor outlets will face down.
Turbo center section orientation – critical
- Orient each turbo center section:
  - Oil feed at 12 o’clock
  - Oil drain at 6 o’clock
- This is essential for proper oiling and long turbo life.
Lock in turbo orientation
- Once you’re happy with:
  - Clearance
  - Levels
  - Center section orientation (12/6 position)
- Remove the turbos and tighten all the ½” bolts on:
  - Compressor covers
  - Exhaust housings
- Install the oil feed and drain plates using:
  - Supplied bolts
  - Supplied gaskets

4. Install Oil Drains in the Oil Pan & Oil Feed Sandwich Plate

⚠️ Note: 2018+ F-150 5.0 trucks have a plastic oil pan. Drill carefully.

Drill oil drain ports in the pan
- Use the pictures provided with your kit as reference for location.
- Requirements:
  - As close to the pan rail (top edge) as possible
  - Must be above the running oil level
- Drill each hole with a 37/64" drill bit.
- Use a 3/8" NPT tap to thread the holes:
  - This is a tapered thread – do not run the tap all the way through.
  - Typically, go about halfway with the tap.
Tip: On 4x4 trucks, a 90° drill makes this much easier.
Install 3/8" NPT to -10AN fittings
- Clean out chips and debris around the drilled area.
- Apply thread tape, pipe paste, or anaerobic sealant to the 3/8" NPT threads.
- Carefully thread in the 3/8" NPT to -10AN fittings from your oil kit.
- Snug them down without over-tightening – you can crack the plastic pan if you go too hard.
Flush debris & install sandwich plate
- Drain the engine oil:
  - This helps flush any plastic shavings that may have entered the pan.
- Install the oil filter sandwich plate:
  - It goes between the oil filter and the oil filter housing on the front of the block.
- Use pipe paste on:
  - All threaded ports in the sandwich plate
  - The supplied 1/8" NPT plugs
Install oil feed fitting
- Install the 1/8" NPT to -4AN fitting into a port on the sandwich plate:
  - Choose a port that clears the coolant tubes and alternator belt routing.
- Tighten everything down and install a new oil filter.

5. Install Wastegates, Dump Tubes & Downpipes

Install wastegates
- Install the wastegates onto the up-pipe flanges:
  - Passenger side wastegate must be installed before the downpipe, as it sits underneath.
- Install the v-band clamps snug but adjustable.
- Clock the wastegates so you can:
  - Clear surrounding components
  - Reach the clamp nuts for final tightening later.
Install dump tubes & downpipes
- Install both dump tubes and downpipes using the supplied 3" v-band clamps.
- Expect to go back and forth between:
  - Turbo orientation
  - Up-pipe position
  - Downpipe clocking
- Goal:
  - No contact with:
    - Steering shaft
    - Valve covers
    - Frame or body
- Patience here = clean, rattle-free install.
Install crossover pipe
- Under the truck, bolt the crossover pipe into the merge.
- This helps confirm:
  - Downpipe alignment
  - Exhaust fitment
Factory-style exhaust adapter
- If using a stock-style exhaust with ball-and-socket connection:
  - Use the supplied adapter piece included in the kit.
O2 sensor bungs
- Each downpipe has:
  - Upper O2 bungs
  - Lower O2 bungs
- Extra bungs are provided for those running gauges.
- On the shop truck, the lower O2 bungs are used for primary O2s:
  - This avoids using extension harnesses.

6. Run Turbo Oil Feed & Drain Lines

Drain lines
- Push the straight -10AN push-lock hose ends onto the turbo oil drains.
- Route hoses:
  - Downward
  - Parallel to the oil pan
  - Into the 90° -10AN hose ends that thread onto your oil pan fittings.
- Check:
  - Lines must not touch manifolds or up-pipes.
  - Drain routing must go only downhill with no upward loops.
    - Turbos are gravity drain only – no kinks, no uphill sections.
Feed lines
- From the sandwich plate:
  - Run the small -4AN feed line to the supplied tee fitting.
- From the tee:
  - Run the two longer feed lines to each turbo.
- Again, avoid:
  - Sharp bends
  - Contact with hot surfaces or moving parts

7. Install Intercooler & Charge Piping

Remove the grille
- In each fender well, remove the two 7mm bolts holding the painted trim piece under the headlights.
- Carefully pop the trim pieces off.
- Remove all plastic push pins holding the upper core support cover and remove the cover.
- Remove the grille bolts:
  - Four across the top
  - One on each side down low (behind the trim you removed)
- Unbolt and set the horn aside for now.
Mount the intercooler
- The intercooler brackets are the two aluminum triangulated brackets in the kit.
- Bolt the brackets to the bottom of the intercooler first using:
  - Supplied M8x1.25 bolts
  - Two 8mm washers per bolt
- Mount the intercooler to the truck:
  - Center it in the grille opening.
  - Use 3/8" self-tapping screws or pop nuts – your choice.
Install intercooler tubing
- Lay out the intercooler piping according to the supplied pictures.
- Fit all pipes into their couplers and get everything roughly aligned.
- Once positioned:
  - Install and tighten the T-bolt clamps from the clamp kit.
Install blow-off valve
- Install the BOV on the bottom of the intercooler using:
  - The O-ring
  - The V-band clamp from the black BOV box
Relocate horn
- Move the horn to:
  - The backside of the frame horns, below the intercooler.
- There is a factory mounting tab with a 10mm bolt you can use.
- Extend the horn wiring so it reaches the new location.

8. Vacuum Lines & Boost Control

Boost control routing
- The kit includes a simple diagram for vacuum/boost line routing.
- Standard setup:
  - Manual boost controller (MBC) in line between boost source and wastegates.
- If running spring pressure only:
  - Ignore the MBC in the diagram.
  - Run the pressure line from your boost source straight to a tee.
  - Tee out to both wastegates per the diagram.

Follow the supplied diagram closely for:

Wastegate reference ports

MBC orientation (if used)

9. Heater Hoses, AC Line, and Wiring Cleanup

Re-route heater core hoses
- Driver-side heater hose:
  - Flip it so the 90° plastic end is at the firewall.
- Route the other hose:
  - Forward from the firewall
  - Around the passenger-side turbo
  - Down under the battery tray area
  - Then back up to connect at the top of the heater core lines
- The factory hose length is usually enough to make this routing work.
Secure wiring & lines
- With battery tray and fender liners still out:
  - Tie up:
    - Any loose wiring
    - Speed sensor wiring
    - Heater hoses
  - Make sure nothing can contact:
    - Manifolds
    - Up-pipes
    - Downpipes
    - Turbos
Install new AC line
- Install the On3Performance-supplied AC line.
- Make sure it’s routed and secured clear of heat and moving parts.
Reinstall fender liners
- Once everything is secured and out of harm’s way, reinstall both fender liners.

10. Trim Battery Tray, Reassemble & Final Checks

Trim the battery tray
- You will need to trim the back corner of the tray (see kit photo for exact cut).
- Test fit to ensure:
  - It clears turbo components and hoses.
Reinstall battery tray & battery
- Reinstall the tray using all factory bolts.
- Reinstall and connect the battery.
Grille and active aero
- If your truck has electronic flaps (active grille shutters):
  - They must be removed.
- Some light trimming of the lower grille area may be required:
  - Take your time
  - Final install should look clean and OEM-like.
Fluids & final inspection
- Top off:
  - Engine oil
  - Coolant
- Double-check:
  - All v-band clamps
  - T-bolt clamps
  - Oil feed and drain connections
  - Vacuum/boost lines
  - Wiring and hoses away from heat/moving parts
First start
- Confirm everything is tight and clear.
- Start the truck and check for:
  - Oil leaks
  - Coolant leaks
  - Exhaust leaks
  - Any rubbing or unusual noises

Good luck!

A twin-turbo F-150 isn’t just a bolt-on—it’s a full system, and taking the time to route, clock, and secure everything correctly is what separates a headache from a truck you can actually enjoy. Use this guide as a reference any time you’re unsure, don’t be afraid to slow down and re-check your work, and make sure you pair the install with proper tuning and datalogging before you lean on it. Do it right, and that first wide-open pull will make every late night in the garage worth it.

Installing On3 Twin Turbo Kit On 2018+ F-150